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Jewelry Guide - Jewelry Glossary

Knowledge of precious metals will bring you to further questions and make you inquisitive about the various terminologies associated with metals and its jewelry. To quench this thirst of knowing more, you can visit our Metal Glossary.
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Term

Description

Abrasion

Very small and tiny sketches on facet joints which fabricates white hairy lines instead of sharp crisp facet edges. Antique and other old or heavily used diamonds can have abrasions.

Acid Etching

This process involves engrossing the metal in an acid solution while protecting certain parts with a substance like wax or rosin, which is known as resist, in order to create a pattern on the metal's surface.

Acid Test

Acid test determines the purity of gold through the use of nitric acid and aqua regia.

Acidizing

Acidizing refers to the treatment of diamonds with hot acids to clean them after mining or after cutting, specially to remove oxides or polishing residues from surface fissures.

Actual Gold Content

Actual gold content describes the amount of gold that exists in a metal object after subtracting all the alloys.

Adamantine

This refers to the surface luster and shine of a diamond.

Adamas

The word Diamond comes from this ancient Greek word ‘Adamas’, which means unconquerable.

Adhesive Ear Post

Adhesive ear post is an ear post with a flat surface, which is used with a 2 sided adhesive dot rather than solder or fusion for attaching an ornament part of the earring.

Ag

The chemical symbol for silver.

Agate

Agate, a variety of Chalcedony Quartz, is found in various colors and patterns with 7 on Mohs hardness scale.

Alexandrite

Alexandrite is a form of the mineral Chrysoberyl which is a very attractive and rare stone. It is 8.5 on Mohs hardness scale and mainly found in Russia, Sri Lanka, Brazil, Burma, Madagascar and USA. The most sensational feature about this stone is its surprising ability to change its color under different forms of light. Green or bluish-green in daylight, red in candle light, green in fluorescent light and reddish-purple in standard electric (tungsten) light.

Alloy

An alloy is a mixture of two or more metals usually mixed to enhance the strength and/or appearance of a particular metal. Copper, silver, nickel, zinc etc are frequently used as alloy metals and usually are mixed with all precious metals for some specific purpose.

Alluvial

Stones those have been sourced from alluvial deposits in river beds or transported by water and deposited in seas and lakes. Many gems, including diamonds, are found in alluvial deposits and Alluvial stones are usually of gem quality.

Alpaca

It is a mixture of alloys, which is a substitute of silver, consisting of 55% copper, 20% nickel, 20% zinc, and 5% tin.

Aluminum

It is an inexpensive, lightweight and malleable silver-white ore with a bluish tinge. Aluminum is remarkably resisted to oxidation and used in many alloys.

Amber

The gemstone Amber is the fossilized liquid, resin, or gum from pine trees and available in various colors like golden yellow, golden orange, brown, green, red and violet. These gemstones may contain insects, plant material, feathers and other small objects that were trapped millions of years ago when the resin was sticky. Amber is quite soft but perfect for jewelry as it can be easily cut, etched, faceted, or carved.

American Cut

Marcel Tolkowsky’s mathematically calculated ideal proportions and facet angles, to produce maximum brilliancy consistent with a high degree of fire in a round brilliant diamond or gemstone, are known as American Cut or Ideal Cut.

Amethyst

Amethyst is a variety from Quartz family, colored by traces of manganese, titanium and iron. Deeper-colored amethysts are more highly valued. It is available in colors like purple, pale lavender to deep reddish purple, bluish violet etc. Rich purple has always been a rare and noble color. Amethyst’s name comes from Greek word 'Amethystos' mean 'Not Intoxicated' or ‘Not Drunken’. The Amethyst is said to bring good luck and to radiate love. This brilliantly sparkling stone is the most valued gemstone from the quartz family. It is 7 on Mohs hardness scale and mainly found in Sri Lanka, Brazil, Burma, Canada, East Africa, India, North America, Russia, Uruguay, Madagascar and Australia.

Amulet

An amulet, also known as talisman, is a pendant or charm worn as a protection from evil, illness or to bring good luck.

Anklet

An anklet, also known as ankle bracelet, is a jewelry ornament worn around the ankle. Anklets are more popular in women and used as a fashion ornament.

Annealing

It is a process of providing multi-phased heat and stress treatment that alters the microstructure of a metal adding strength, pliability and hardness.

Anniversary Band

Anniversary band is a popular type of ring usually given as a gift by husband to wife on their wedding anniversary. It contains a continuous row of diamonds or other gems of the same size and cut.

Anodizing

Anodizing is a process used to dye and/or modify the surface of a metal using electrolysis. The dye enters the pores in the etched oxide surface of the metal. Usually metals like aluminum, magnesium, titanium and tantalum are often anodized.

Antique Jewelry

Antique jewelry refers to jewelry which is made more than 100 years ago.

Appraisal

Appraisal is a written statement based on estimated retail replacement value of the diamond or gemstone or piece of jewelry. Appraisal is mainly used for insurance purposes and should be updated after every few years.

Aquamarine

Aquamarine is a verity of mineral Beryl. This is a fascinatingly beautiful gemstone found in colors like light blue of the sky to the deep blue of the sea. The more intense the color of an Aquamarine, the more value is put on it. Its hardness makes it very tough which comes in between 7.5 to 8 on Mohs hardness scale and it is mainly found in Brazil, Madagascar, Russia, Afghanistan, India, Pakistan, Nigeria, Zambia, Mozambique and USA. Its name is derived from the Latin 'Aqua' (water) and 'Mare' (sea). Aquamarine is one of the most popular and best-known gemstones.

Artificial Diamond

Artificial diamonds are produced by man in laboratory and mainly used in making artificial jewelry.

Assay

An analysis of a metal to determine its purity by scraping a bit of metal from the metal piece.

Asterism

Asterism is the star effect that appears on some gemstones. This star effect is a reflection that appears as two or more intersecting bands of light across the surface of a gem. Usually asterism is found in Ruby, Sapphire and Garnet.

Au

The chemical symbol for gold. Au is derived from Latin word ‘aurum’ for gold.

Aventurescent

Aventurescent gemstones are those which display a colorful play of sparkling reflections due to small metallic inclusions.

Baguette

Baguette is a French word meaning ‘Rod’. It is a step cut for small rectangular shaped diamonds and other gemstones.

Bail

A bail is an oval or teardrop or D shaped metal element that is attached at the top of a pendant. It allows a pendant to hang from a chain in a free form.

Band

A band is a type of ring that possesses the same width all the way round and mainly used for wedding rings.

Bangle

Bangle is circular in shape which comes in a solid form and usually worn in pairs in both hands. These bangles are generally made of metals, glass, wood, plastic etc.

Bar Setting

In this style of setting, stones are individually set between these bars leaving the sides of the stones exposed to light. This method maximizes the amount of light entering the stones which create superior brilliance and sparkle.

Baroque

Diamonds and other gemstones mainly pearls which are irregular in shape or available in freeform.

Barrel clasp

A barrel clasp is a round or oval shaped jewelry fastener that resembles a barrel. The clasp pieces contain ridges around the barrel for easier grasping and these pieces screw together just by rotating one piece into the other. Barrel clasps are frequently used in necklaces and bracelets as they provide greater security.

Barrette

A barrette is a pin or clasp that is used to hold hair in place. Usually this is worn by women either as a hair pin to keep hair in place or just as an ornament.

Base Metal

Base metal is a term used to refer any non-precious metal. Generally it is used as a base for gold-filled or gold plated coverings.

Bead

Bead is a small rounded element, made from a variety of materials, with a hole through it. Beads are commonly made from stone, shell, glass or plastic.

Bead Cap

Bead caps are metal findings that are placed on either one or both ends of a stone bead to cover any roughness or damage around the drilled hole.

Bead Clasp

A bead clasp is a type of clasp mechanism that is hidden in a bead or pearl.

Bead Cone

Bead cone is a metal cone shape which is used to secure and cover the ends of multiple strands of beading.

Bead Setting

In bead setting, stones are placed in holes that have been drilled out on the surface of a jewelry item. This method was very common in the 20th century.

Bead Tip

Bead tip is a concave metal piece, attached to a metal loop, used to add thread to a clasp. It is used between the clasp and the beading thread to hide the beading thread knot which is covered inside the concave piece.

Bearded girdle

Small or tiny, numerous, hair like fractures / cracks around the girdle extending into the stone.

Belcher Setting

A ring mounting in which the claws for the setting are formed from the shank of the ring. This setting style is commonly used in men rings.

Belly Ring

A type of body jewelry worn in or on the belly button.

Beryl

The name beryl comes from ancient Greek word ‘beryllos’ which means precious blue-green color. This stone is available in a variety of colors including green, yellow, greenish-yellow, blue to blue-green, red, colorless and pink.

Betrothal Ring

A plain ring, without any stone, that is usually presented by a man to his fiancée, which shows his intention to marry her. This ring was mainly used in ancient Rome and other old cultures.

Bezel

A facet on the Crown, or slopping surface just above the girdle of the Diamond.

Bezel Facets

On a round brilliant-cut diamond, these eight large, four-sided facets on the crown where the upper points join the table and the lower points join the girdle.

Bezel Setting

In this style of setting, a metal rim gently holds a stone in place by the girdle. The bezel setting guards the stone from any damages and yet allows light to enter which creates brilliance and sparkle.

Birthstone

A birthstone is nothing but a gemstone only, which is associated with the date of one’s birth and the wearing of such birthstone is considered to bring good luck and health. Certain gemstones are believed to have Supernatural powers and their relationship with planets. Many cultures originally assigned a specific gemstone to signify birth during each sign of the zodiac but over the time this tradition has been shifted from the zodiac to calendar months. Following birthstones are assigned for every calendar month. January – Garnet, February – Amethyst, March – Aquamarine, April – Diamond, May – Emerald, June – Pearl / Alexandrite / Moonstone, July – Ruby, August – Peridot / Sardonyx, September – Sapphire, October – Opal / Pink Tourmaline, November – Citrine / Yellow Topaz, December – Turquoise / Tanzanite / Zircon / Blue Topaz.

Black Diamond

A diamond with very dark color like dark gray, very dark green or truly black is referred in the trade as ‘black diamond’.

Blemish

An external mark or surface imperfection on a diamond or gemstone. For example, a nick, abrasion, knot, scratch, minor crack or fissure (cavity), or a poor polish. A natural or an extra facet is also considered a blemish.

Blending

Blending is a process of smoothing rough areas of a metal piece to provide same plane or roundness and/or same surface finish.

Bloomed Gold

This term is used for gold jewelry that has been engrossed in an acid bath to give slightly matte texture.

Blue Diamond

A diamond with blue color is very rare and valuable although fluorescence diamond that shows a blue color in daylight is comparatively common.

Blue Topaz

The most common form of topaz, avaliable in light brown or colorless when mined, but turns blue when exposed to light or heat.

Blue White

A term that has been used for near white diamonds with strong blue fluorescence.

Body Color

A diamond's actual color which can be observed when examined under a diffused light against a hue less background. The diffused light eliminates glaring reflections and dispersion, which would otherwise confuse the color determination.

Body Jewelry

Jewelry designed to be worn on or in any part of the body, typically refers to belly rings, nose studs, toe rings, tongue bars etc.

Book Chain

A style of chain with rectangular metal links where each link resembles a book.

Bort

Industrial grade diamonds generally used as drill points.

Bow Tie Effect

An optical effect due to a shadowy area visible in some fancy shapes, caused by light leaking out from the bottom of the Diamond. This effect can be minimized by careful cutting using best proportions and angles.

Box Chain

A type of chain, which has wide and square links where each link resembles a box.

Box Clasp

A box clasp is a type of fastener that contains a box with an opening, which is notched on the top of the box on the one end and a flat piece of metal, which is folded over to form a spring with a knob at the other end. The folded metal spring slips into the hole in the box with the knob sticking out through the notch in the top. The compressed spring holds the two ends in place and it is released by pressing the knob.

Bracelet

A bracelet is a type of jewelry, worn around the wrist. Bracelets contain gemstones, rocks, wood and other precious material and these are usually made of a variety of material, including metal, leather, cloth etc.

Bracelet Link

Bracelet link, a type of decorative jewelry finding, contains rings or loops on each end for linking with jump rings or connectors.

Brass

An alloy, made up of roughly half copper and half zinc, which has a nice yellow color.

Bridal Jewelry

Bridal jewelry is a general term for jewelry used in the wedding ceremony. It includes wedding rings, engagement rings, gifts for the bride or groom and gifts for the best man, maid of honor, ushers, bridesmaids and others taking part in the wedding ceremony.

Bridal set

Bridal set is a combination of an engagement ring and wedding ring that often match or compliment each other.

Briefjes

A special kind of paper, which is used to contain diamonds. This paper has several inner leaves of wrinkled bluish paper, which gives whiter look to the diamonds.

Brilliance

Brilliance describes the reflections of white light returned to the eye from a diamond or gemstone. Brilliance is produced primarily when light enters through the table, reaches the pavilion facets, and is then reflected back out through the table. The major factors that affect the amount of brilliancy in a gem are refractive index, proportions, polish and transparency.

Brilliant Cut

Brilliant Cut is the most common style of diamond or gemstone cutting and it is called a brilliant cut because it is designed to maximize brilliance. The standard round brilliant cut consists of a total of 58 facets which covers 1 table, 8 bezel facets, 8 star facets and 16 upper-girdle facets on the crown; and 8 pavilion facets, 16 lower-girdle facets, and usually a culet on the pavilion, or base. Brilliant cut stones normally come in round shape, but there are modified variants in other shapes also.

Briolette

This term is used for a long teardrop shaped diamond or gemstone with rose cut facets, which sometimes is also drilled to be used as a pendant.

Broker

A person who is a specialist in introducing diamond buyers and sellers, and earns his commission on the value of deals done between diamond buyers and sellers.

Bronze

Bronze is a very heavy and dense alloy consisting of 60% copper and 40% tin. It has a dull brown color and usually not preferred in jewelry due to its heaviness.

Brooch

A brooch is an ornamental pin with a clasp to attach it to a garment or clothing. It is made often with precious metal along with gemstones.

Brown Diamond

A diamond with attractive or vivid brown color is rare and considered as fancy colored stone.

Bruise

An inclusion which consists surface crumbling and normally accompanied by tiny, root like feathers. This inclusion is usually caused by external trauma such as a knock or a blow.

Brushed Finish

A brushed finish, also known as matte finish, is a texture applied to metal surface, which gives a dull and non-reflective finish. In this finish, a firm wire brush is used to give scratches or tiny grooves on the surface of the metal piece.

Bruting

Bruting is the process of rounding a diamond to form its girdle. This is usually done by grinding one diamond against another on a rotating wheel. It is also known as girdling or rounding.

Bubble

Any transparent inclusion which consists a tiny crystal or a grain of a different mineral.

Buffing

Buffing is the process refers to the use of grease compound in combination with wheels to produce very smooth polished surface. It is the final step in professional finishing process.

Bullion

Bullion is a precious metal usually gold in form of bars containing at least 99.5% purity.

Bullion coin

Bullion coin is a precious metal in the form of coin which trades at a price close to spot. In other words, it has little or no numismatic value.

Burn

Burn refers to changes in metallurgical properties and other physical characteristics such as discoloration of the metal piece due to excessive temperature during grinding.

Burnishing

Burnishing is a finishing with shiny surface usually resulting from using a dull or loaded grinding wheel or coated abrasive.

Burnt

A facet may appear burnt or foggy, as a result of the cutter polishing the facet against the grain, or otherwise allowing the diamond to overheat causing the surface to oxydise.

Burr

Burr refers to a sharp edge of metal which remains on the surface of metal after cutting and reforming.

Buttercup Setting

It is a deep six-prong setting, with tall prongs, that resembles a buttercup flower. This setting is typically used for pendants and earrings.

Butterfly Chain

A chain composed of very tiny butterfly-shaped links with oval-shaped wings.

Butterfly Clutch

Butterfly clutch, also known as grip fastener, grips a grooved post. It has two wings that are squeezed to release it from the post.

Byzantine Chain

A type of chain, which has close-fitting links that create an intricate design.

Cable Chain

A chain composed of round linked rings of uniform size.

Cabochon Cut

A cabochon shaped gemstone resembles a dome as it comes in round shape with no facets. Generally onyx stone is cut in a cabochon shape.

Cachette

A sealed packet with approved status containing diamonds bought in a trade deal, along with agreed payment terms. This word comes from French word ‘Cacher’ which means to seal.

Cairo Star

It is a variation on the modern round brilliant cut with 74 facets.

Cameo

Cameo is a style of carving in which the design pattern is left and the surrounding surface is cut away leaving the design in relief. This is done to use the natural colors of the stone or shell to produce the different shadings of the carving.

Canary

A term used for diamonds with an intense yellow hue. The yellow color may appear with very slight greenish or slight orangey shade. Such diamonds are considered as Fancy and also called Fancy Yellow.

Carat

The term Carat is used as a standard unit of measurement of the weight of diamonds and most other gemstones. The word comes from the carob beans which are known for its consistent weight and was used in ancient times to measure diamonds and other gemstones. One carat (ct.) equals 200 milligrams, or 0.2 grams (1/5 of a gram), or 1/142 of an ounce. There are 100 points in a carat. If all other factors are equal, the more a diamond weighs, the more valuable it will be. It is sometimes incorrectly spelled ‘Karat’, but Karat refers only to the fineness of pure gold and gold alloys.

Carbon

Diamonds are composed of carbon entirely, or almost entirely.

Carbon Spot

An inclusion or imperfection in a diamond that appears black, which is caused by the addition of the small particles of graphite or another mineral. In most cases, these black inclusions are not visible to the naked eye, and do not affect the brilliance of the diamond.

Carving

Carving refers to the cutting of decorative objects from a larger stone.

Casting

Casting is a widely used jewelry manufacturing process, in which a molten material such as metal, plastic or any other material is poured or forced into a hollow mold and allowed to solidify within the mold and then ejected or broken out to get a fabricated jewelry part.

Catch

Catch is a fastening device used to attach one end of a piece of jewelry to another by accepting and locking a top wire or a pin-stem.

Cavity

A type of inclusion consisting of a large or deep opening in the diamond. It may be either internal or extending to the surface cause by cleavage or by a blow. Internal cavities may naturally contain gas, liquid, solid, a combination of two or three of these.

Centenary

A large and famous diamond, unveiled recently in 1988. It was 599 carats in the rough, and cut to a gem weighing over 273 carats. It is second only to the Cullinan for its combination of size and quality.

Center Stone

The center stone is a main stone placed in central position in a piece of jewelry item with multiple stones. In a ring with one stone only, the center stone is also called the solitaire.

Centrifugal Casting

Centrifugal casting is the process of casting in which molds are attached to the outside edge of a hollow tube. Metal in liquid form is poured into the tube and it is spun at high-speed centrifugal force that pulls the molten metal into the molds.

Certificate

A statement or document issued and certified by a gemological laboratory which consists the genuineness of a diamond or other gemstone along with the quality and other characteristics.

Chain

A chain is a flexible series of links, beads or rings, generally made of metal, connected or attached into one another. Chain is a widely used jewelry item and many necklaces and bracelets are made out of small chains. Some popular types of chain include: Book chain, Box chain, Butterfly chain, Byzantine chain, Cable chain, Curb chain, Figaro chain, Marina chain, Omega chain, Rope chain and Snake chain.

Chandelier Finding

It is a type of decorative finding, often used on an earring, with a drop or drops that hangs down from the earlobe and dangles like a chandelier.

Change of Color

Sometimes diamond changes color or appears with a different color in different types of light. This is caused by selective absorption and/or transmission of the specific type of light to which the stone is exposed.

Channel Setting

A setting style or method in channel form where no metal is displayed between stones and these stones are held in only by a slight rim which runs along the edges of the channel.

Charm

A charm is a decorative jewelry item, similar to pendant or trinket, usually worn on a bracelet, necklace or earring.

Charm Bracelet

A jewelry item which contains personal charms like pendants or lockets and worn around the wrist.

Charm Hanger

A charm hanger, also known as charm holder, is a jewelry finding which can be attached to a necklace or cord with a jump ring or bail. The bottom part of the holder can be opened to add single or multiple charms.

Charm Ring

It is a ring in which charm is also attached to its ring band.

Chasing

A method of decorating or designing surface of the metal by etching or hammering using shaped punches and a chasing hammer.

Chatoyant

The term chatoyant is used for those stones that have ability to display or reflect a cat's eye effect. This effect is caused by the precise occurrence of slight inclusions. A chatoyant gem exhibits a changeable silky luster as light is reflected within the thin, parallel, fibrous bands.

Chip

A curved break or absence of a tiny piece of a gemstone, caused by normal wear and tear, or by cutting.

Choker

A choker is a type of necklace usually made of pearls that fits tightly around the neck. It comes in 14 to 16 inches in length.

Chrome Plating

Chrome plating is a method of depositing a thin layer of chromium on other metal surface mainly for giving a bright and lustrous metallic surface, which is highly resistant to tarnish.

Chromium

Chromium is a lustrous, hard brittle, steel-blue metallic element which is highly resistant to corrosion and tarnishing. It is generally used in the hardening of steel alloys and the production of stainless steels.

Cigar band

It is a very wide band-style ring.

Citrine

Citrine is a verity of mineral Quartz and available in colors like light yellow, lemon yellow, amber-brown and brilliant orange. This radiant gemstone gets its name from the French word ‘Citrin’, meaning ‘Yellow’. Citrine is known as a tough gemstone with 7 points on Mohs hardness scale and with good durability. This gemstone is mainly found in South America, Brazil, Madagascar, Argentina, Russia, Scotland and Spain.

Claddagh Ring

Claddagh ring is firstly crafted by Master Goldsmith Richard Joyce in 1689, and it is named after the fishing village Claddagh, where he lived at the time of his craftsmanship. This ring has two hands clasping a heart, symbolizing love and surmounted by a crown, symbolizing loyalty. This ring is traditionally used to indicate the heart of the wearer is yet unoccupied.

Clamp

Clamp, also known as cramp, is a metal prong or claw used for gemstone settings.

Clarity

Clarity is one of the four value factors of a diamond or other gemstones which describes the absence or presence of flaws inside or on the surface of a stone. Diamonds and other gemstones are graded on a scale from Flawless (no inclusions or blemishes visible under 10x magnification) to Included (eye visible inclusions or blemishes). If other factors are equal, flawless stones are most valuable.

Clarity Enhancement

A process which is used to improve the apparent clarity of a diamond usually by filling fissures or fractures with a transparent substance like glass. Also known as ‘Fracture Filled’.

Clasp

A clasp is a fastener, such as a hook or buckle, which is used to hold two or more jewelry objects or parts together. It usually contains a hook or buckle on one piece and a slot to hold that hook or buckle on the other piece. Clasps are mainly used in bracelets, necklaces, watchstrap etc. Some of the popular clasps include: Barrel clasp, Bead clasp, Box clasp, Hidden Screw clasp, Lobster Claw clasp, Safety clasp, Screw clasp, Spring Ring clasp and Toggle clasp.

Class Ring

A class ring, also known as graduate ring, is a ring worn by students and alumni in commemoration of their graduation. This ring generally contains a gemstone featuring one of the school’s colors along with engraved name of school and the year of graduation.

Claw

Claw is a style of setting used to hold gemstones in place. It is also known as collet and consists of a ‘Bezel’ and ‘Prong’.

Clean

A word used by some jewelers unofficially or informally which means flawless, or at least internal flawless.

Cleaning (Stones)

Cleaning of a diamond or a gemstone is essential to bring or maintain its shine and brilliance. At the mines, various methods are used to clean rough stones like boiling in acid etc. For domestic cleaning of diamonds and other gemstones, warm soapy water works well.

Cleaning (Casting)

Cleaning of metal casting refers to all activities that are performed to remove sand, scale and / or excess metal from the casting.

Cleavage

The tendency of crystalline minerals to break in one or more definite directions, producing more or less smooth surfaces. A cleavage may be caused by inherent internal strain or by a sharp blow. Cleavage is one of the two methods used by stone cutters to split gemstones in preparation for the cutting process. The other method is sawing.

Clip

Clip is a fastening device used to hold a piece of jewelry on its place. Generally clip is used in non-pierced earrings where its two pieces are closed around the earlobe, using mechanical pressure to hold the earring in place.

Closed Culet

A culet on a diamond which consist a point rather than a facet. That point is too small to be resolved with the unaided eye and can be seen only under 10X magnification.

Closed Setting

Closed setting is a style of setting in which back of the diamond or gemstone is not exposed and usually stone’s back is covered by metal.

Cloud

A group of a number of extremely tiny white inclusions which gives a ‘cloudy’ or ‘milky’ appearance under 10X magnification. These clouds cannot be seen with the naked eye and generally does not significantly impact a gemstone's clarity grade.

Cluster

This term is used for diamond ring or any other jewelry containing a number of diamonds. Cluster is also used for a number of kimberlite pipes occurring in close proximity.

Cluster Ring

A cluster ring is a ring that contains a central gemstone, which is surrounded by a number of smaller stones.

Cluster Setting

In this setting, many small stones are mounted together in a group around a larger sized central stone. Generally cluster setting exhibits flower shaped designs in a multi layered circular form, which is preferred by women in their rings.

Coated Diamond

A diamond colored by a surface coating which masks the diamond’s true body color. Coating may be used extensively to entire pavilion or limited to one or two pavilion facets or a spot on the girdle.

Coin Silver

A mixture of 90% pure silver and 10% metal alloy is known as Coin Silver. A process of melting down coins done in the 19th century, and mostly discarded today.

Collar

Collar necklace worn tightly around the neck and usually consist of multiple strands with an average length of 12 to 13 inches.

Collet

Collet is a style of setting used to hold gemstones in place. It is also known as claw and consists of a ‘Bezel’ and ‘Prong’.

Color

Color is one of the four value factors of a diamond. Diamonds are ranked on a color scale from ‘D’ (colorless) to ‘Z’ (noticeable tint of color, typically yellow or brown). Diamonds with saturation greater than ‘Z’ color are considered Fancy Colored Diamonds such as blue, pink, purple, red etc. and are graded on a separate scale. Color is measured by tone and hue in a gemstone.

Color Change

Few gemstones distinctly change their color when viewed under two different light sources. This feature is commonly found in Alexandrite, Sapphire and Color Change Garnet.

Color Enhancement

Color enhancement is the improvement process of a diamond's or a gemstone's color mainly by irradiation and HPHT (High Pressure, High Temperature). Sometimes color coating is also used to enhance the stone’s color which is not considered as best enhancement way.

Color Grading

A system of grading diamond colors based on their colorlessness (for other than fancy diamonds) or their spectral hue, depth of color or purity of color (for fancy color diamonds) or their hue or tone (for other gemstones).

Colored Gold

Colored gold term is used when gold is mixed or alloyed with other metals, such as silver, copper, zinc, nickel, platinum, palladium etc to create various color hues like white, pink/ rose, green and the seldom found blue, purple and black.

Colorless

Colorless diamonds are white or transparent diamonds and promoted as the best, but only because other attractive colors are extremely rare.

Comex

Comex is one of the world's major commodities futures exchanges where gold and silver are traded. It is a division of the New York Mercantile Exchange based at New York.

Comfort Disc

Comfort disc is a plastic disc that fits over the post of a pierced earring to provide greater comfort to the wearer.

Comfort Fit Ring

A ring that provides comfort to its wearer as it is curved from the inside of the shank.

Commercial

This term is used for medium to low quality diamonds and opposite to fine gem quality.

Commercial White

Commercial White is a dealers’ term for ‘off-white’ diamonds.

Comparison

Sometimes gems laboratories perform their grading by comparing one stone with another stone of known quality. This comparison is useful to consumers who are not well aware of diamond quality factors.

Compass Ring

A compass ring is a ring that rotates and can be used to determine compass direction based on the position of the sun and the time of day.

Composite Gemstone

It refers to a gemstone which is assembled from several pieces, often used to imitate a gem.

Conductivity

Conductivity is the ability of a mineral to transmit heat, electricity or sound.

Coolant

Coolant is a metalworking fluid used in grinding process to prevent a metal piece from burning as well as to lubricate for the process.

Copper

Copper is a reddish-brown non-ferrous metal, which is usually considered as a base metal or alloyed with other precious metals. It is fairly soft metal with excellent conductivity of heat and electricity as well as it is very malleable and ductile. Other than jewelry, it is widely used for electrical wiring and water piping. The chemical symbol for copper is Cu.

Corundum

Corundum is a hard mineral that exists in the form of colored crystals, such as Rubies and Sapphires.

Created

A description of synthetic diamonds opposite to natural ones.

Critical Angle

Critical angle is the largest angle measured from the normal angle from which light can escape, is an optically dense substance, and the smallest angle to the normal angle at which light is totally reflected within the dense substance.

Crown

The upper portion of a cut diamond or gemstone above the girdle which consists of a large flat area on top known as table, and several facets below it.

Crown Angle

The angle between the girdle and stone's bezel / concentric facets is known as crown angle. This gentle slope of the facets that surround the table helps to create the dispersion or fire in a stone. White light enters from the crown angles and brakes up into its spectral hues which ultimately enhance the brilliance of a stone.

Crown Height

The height or depth of the crown of a stone, above the girdle.

Cryptocrystalline

This term is used for a mineral structure in which crystals are very small and due to that they are not even distinguishable through a microscope.

Crystal

A crystal is solid material that has a definite internal atomic structure. Its atomic stricture produces a characteristic external shape as well as physical and optical properties.

Crystal Structure

Crystals are divided in to seven groups on the basis of specific set of angular, geometrical and symmetrical specifications. All crystalline gems can be classified in one of seven groups based on the above specifications. These groups are cubic, tetragonal, hexagonal, trigonal, orthorhombic, monoclinic and triclinic.

Cu

The chemical symbol for copper.

Cube

A cube is a rough diamond with approximately cubic shape. Gem-quality cube-shaped diamond crystals are very rare in nature and considered as collector’s items.

Cuff Bracelet

Cuff is a wide or narrow C shaped band that comes in a solid form and fits over the wrist.

Cuff link

A cufflink is an attractive fastener or clasp, to fasten the two sides of the cuff on a shirt, worn by men and women both. Cufflinks are used to link cuffs that have buttonholes on both the sides.

Culet

The smallest facet, at the bottom of most round or brilliant cut stones, is known as culet. Its purpose is to protect the tip of the pavilion from being chipped or damaged. Most modern shapes have either no culet at all, or a small or very small culet.

Cullinan, Cullinan I, Cullinan II

The Cullinan was the largest Diamond Crystal ever found with weight of 3,106 carats in the rough and was cut into 9 major stones and 96 smaller stones. Out of these 9 major stones, Cullinan I is the largest stone with 530.20 carats and Cullinan II is the second largest stone with 317.40 carats. Both of these stones are now part of British Crown Jewels.

Cultured Pearl

A pearl cultivated by an artificial process that imitates the organic process by which a natural pearl is created. An irritant such as a bead, grain of sand, or piece of mantle tissue is inserted manually into the body of a mollusk, and becomes the nucleus of a pearl once that mollusk secretes nacre to cover the irritation.

Cushion

A shape of gemstone, which ranges from square to rectangular and it has rounded corners and larger facets to increase its brilliance. Cushion Cut stones are also known as "pillow cut" stones.

Cut

Cut refers to the geometric proportions and finish of a stone. It is one of the most important factors in determining diamond's or gemstone’s sparkle and brilliance. The stone should be symmetrical in all dimensions so that it will appear balanced, and so that its facets will reflect light evenly, which will provide good brilliance to stone. It is the only man-made contribution to a stone's beauty and value.

Cutter

The person who cuts and polishes rough diamonds & gemstones and convert them into finished stones.

Cutting

The process of cutting, grinding or polishing rough diamonds & gemstones and convert them into finished stones.

CZ

CZ denotes cubic zirconium, a widely used simulant, an imitation for a natural gemstone including diamond. But CZ is easily detectable by it’s 80% higher weight than a normal stone of the same proportions or by thermal conductivity testing.

Dangle Earring

A dangle earring, which is available in various lengths from a centimeter or two to up to shoulders, is designed to flow from the bottom of the earlobes. It is generally attached to the ear by the use of thin wire, which goes through the earlobe and connects to it in a small hook at the back.

Deburring

It is a method of removing burrs from the metal piece by using various hand and automated processes. Coated abrasives, non-woven products and stones are typically used for deburring.

Decorative Jewelry Findings

Decorative jewelry findings are used in a piece of jewelry that provides beauty and good looks to that piece of jewelry. These are primarily included in a piece of jewelry to enhance the beauty and do not serve any mechanical function. Decorative jewelry findings include charms, pendants, Festoons, Filigrees etc.

Deep

This usually means a diamond or a gemstone which has been cut too deep. This deep cut maximizes weight but sacrifices brilliance.

Demi Parure

A jewelry set of matching pieces, usually containing a necklace, pin, bracelet or earring.

Density

The density of a substance depends on both its mass and its volume. For example, lead is denser than feathers, so 1 tonne of lead will have a lesser volume than 1 tonne of feathers.

Depth

The height of a diamond or gemstone from the table to the culet which is measured in millimeters.

Depth Percentage

The depth percentage, which expresses how deep the stone is in comparison to how wide it is. In other words, the depth of the stone is divided by the average width. This depth percentage of a stone is important to its brilliance and value. The pavilion should be deep enough to allow light to bounce around inside the stone and be reflecting out to the eye at the proper angle.

Detection

Detection is the ability to identify diamond imitations, synthetics and treatments.

Diameter

The width of the diamond or gemstone, as measured across the widest part of the girdle.

Diamond

The word "diamond" comes from the Greek word “Adamas”, meaning "Unconquerable". Diamond is composed of carbon that crystallizes in the “cubic,” or “isometric,” crystal system. It is the hardest known substance in the world (10 on Mohs’ scale). The Diamond is uniquely resistant to damage by heat or scratching, and can be cut or polished only by another diamond.It occurs in colors ranging from colorless to yellow, brown, orange, green, blue, and violet.

Diamond Cutter

The person who cuts and polishes rough diamonds and convert them into finished diamonds.

Diamond Cutting

The process of cutting, grinding or polishing rough diamonds and convert them into finished diamonds.

Diamond Gauge

An instrument that is used to measure a diamond's length, width and depth in millimeters.

Diamond Saw

A saw used for dividing or separating diamonds.

Dichoric

This term refers to a gemstone that displays a different color or shade, which is other than the original gemstone’s color, when viewed from different directions or angles.

Die

An engraved metal object, usually of a hard metal such as steel, bronze or brass, used to strike or stamp the design on another metal object.

Die Struck

Die struck is a process of reproducing an object by pressing or striking a piece of metal between a pair of dies. This pair consists male and female patterns to form highly detailed impressions on that metal piece.

Dinner ring

Dinner ring is a large oversized ring, set with precious or semiprecious stones. This ring is also known as cocktail ring.

Direction

Hardness is directional in diamonds and it is important for cutting. The optimal direction of cutting and polishing depends on the optical axes of diamonds.

Dispersion

Dispersion is the ability of a diamond or other gemstone, to separate white light into the colors of the spectrum. Diamond has the highest dispersion (.044) of any natural, colorless gem.

Double Refraction

This term is used when each ray of light is split in two as it enters in a non-cubic mineral.

Doublet

Doublet is a composite stone which is made of two components, usually cemented or glued together with a clear adhesive.

Draw, Draw Color

A diamond which is not pure white (colorless) is often said to draw color.

Drill Bit

Due to diamond’s hardness, it is often used in high quality or high performance drill bits.

Drill, Drilling

Now laser is used to drill a diamond neatly for removing inclusions as well as drilling could also be done to create a diamond bead.

Drop Cut

A drop cut or briolette is a pear-shaped cut gemstone with triangular facets on top. This type of stone makes a nice pendant.

Drop Earring

A type of earring which hangs below the earlobe. It is also known as Dangle Earring or Chandalier Earring.

Durability

Durability describes a stone’s resistance power against scratches and cracks due to wear. The durability of a diamond or gemstone depends on its hardness, toughness and stability.

Dust

Very tiny rough diamonds and generally used as abrasives. It is also known as diamond powder.

Dwt

Dwt is used as a symbol for ‘pennyweight’ that is 1/20th of a troy ounce or approx 1.555 grams.

Ear Cuff

Ear cuff is a wide decorative ring with a gap designed to be pinched onto the ear without need for piercing. It can be pinched onto any part of the ear, not just the earlobe.

Ear Nut

An ear nut is a type of clutch contains a hole through which an earring post is attached to secure the earring to the earlobe. The friction version has two curved wings that grasp a grooved post.

Ear Threads

Ear thread is a small earring element that contains a thin pin and a small chain, which is threaded through holes in the ears. They usually have a small cup or ball or loop on the opposite end of the pin. Beads can be included to the chains before threading or can be fastened to the cup or loop on the end.

Earring

A jewelry item that is worn on the ear, often in both the ears, is known as earring. It can be attached in a variety of ways, including with clips or screw backs that grip the ear lobe or with wires that pass through it. Earrings are mainly worn by women but sometimes men also prefer it to wear especially on one ear. There are countless styles and types of earrings available for pierced as well as non-pierced ears.

Earring back

Earring back is a bead or disk that fits over an earring post and holds the earring securely in place, like a catch.

Earring Jacket

A separate fashionable piece of jewelry that can be added to an earring by the wearer to create exceptional looks.

Electroplated

This term is generally used for jewelry items that have been coated with gold through the process of electroplating.

Electroplating

Electroplating is the process where inexpensive metals are frequently electroplated or coated with a thin layer of more expensive metals like gold (gold plating), silver (silver plating), rhodium (rhodium plating), copper (electro coppering) etc. In this process, an electric current is flown to coat an electrically conductive metal object with a relatively thin layer of precious metal.

Emerald

Emerald, a verity of mineral Beryl, is one of the most fascinating and beautiful gemstones available in various shades of green color. The name of this remarkable gemstone comes from Greek ‘Smaragdos’, meaning ‘Green Stone’. Deep green is the most desired color in emeralds. Its hardness makes it very tough and durable which comes in between 7.5 to 8 on Mohs hardness scale and it is mainly found in Columbia, Brazil, Zimbabwe, South Africa, Afghanistan and USA. Flawless emeralds are very uncommon, and are noted for their great value, sometimes even more than diamonds.

Emerald Cut

Emerald Cut diamond or gemstone is a square or rectangular shape stone with cut corners. This is also known as Step Cut because it has rows of facets, usually 48 to 50, that resemble a staircase. Due to its larger, more open table, this shape highlights the clarity of a stone but with fewer facets, this shape brings less brilliance than the other shapes.

Enamel

Enamel is a powdered colored glass fused onto the surface of the piece of jewelry. It is a soft material and can be easily cracked or damaged. This should not be used on jewelry pieces, which are exposed to daily wear.

Engagement Ring

An engagement ring is a ring worn by a woman, which indicates her engagement to be married. A man presents this ring to a woman who accepts his marriage proposal.

Engraving

Engraving is a method of surface decoration in which a design is etched or engraved with a sharp tool.

Enhance, Enhanced, Enhancement

Enhance or enhancement is the process to improve a diamond's or a gemstone's color or clarity by using various methods.

Etched

It is very faintly carved decoration scratched onto the surface of a metal piece.

Eternity Ring

A ring generally contains a continuous line of gemstone, symbolizing eternity with a partner.

European Cut

A European version of ‘ideal’ cut which was used and preferred in Europe although it was never adopted as a common form of cutting. In this cut, stone‘s proportions were worked out mathematically for light falling perpendicularly on the crown.

European Wire

A long curved wire which passes through a pierced earlobe and clasps shut.

Extender Chain

A chain which may be attached to another chain in order to extend the length.

Extra Facet

An additional facet placed onto a diamond or onto a gemstone, usually to remove a ‘natural’ or small surface blemish. This extra facet is not required by the cutting style and symmetry.

Eye

Eye is a loop or ring, made of wire or any other material, used as a connector for necklaces, pendants, etc.

Eye Clean

A term used in the jewelry industry to describe a diamond or a gemstone with no blemishes or inclusions that are visible to the unaided eye.

Face

A term used for flat or plane surface that make up the exterior form of a crystal.

Facet

A plane, polished surface on a diamond or on a gemstone which allows light to enter in a stone and reflect off through different angles.

Faceted Girdle

A girdle of a stone that is lapped and polished for maximum surface reflection and has many flat planes around the circumference of the stone.

Faceting

Faceting is the process of placing facets on a stone. The shape and number of the facets give the stone its style of cut.

Faith Ring

A faith ring, also known as fede ring, has only two clasped hands, symbolizing faith and trust.

Fancy Cut, Fancy Shape

Any shape of a diamond or a gemstone other than the round brilliant shape is known as fancy cut or fancy shape. It includes marquise, emerald cut, heart shape, pear shape, etc.

Fancy Diamond

Fancy Diamond is a Diamond with strong natural body color other than light yellow or light brown. Colored or fancy diamonds are very rare and valuable and available in various colors like blue, pink, purple, red etc.

Feather

Feathers are small fractures in a stone caused by the tremendous stress that the stone suffered while it was growing underground. Under magnification, these small fractures appear very much like a feather.

Fede rings

A fede ring, also known as faith ring, has only two clasped hands, symbolizing faith and trust.

Ferrule

Ferrule is a metal band or cap that is fitted to the end of wire, thread, cord or any other material to prevent fraying or to add decoration.

Festoon

Festoon is a type of pendant that contains rings on both sides through which a chain or string can be attached. It generally functions as the centerpiece of a necklace.

Fibula

A fibula, also known as brooch, is an ornamental pin with a clasp to attach it to a garment or clothing. It is made often with precious metal but sometimes with bronze or other material too along with gemstones.

Figaro Chain

Instead of uniform links, figaro chain features a distinct pattern of three (or five) equally sized links separated by one longer link.

Figure 8 safety catch

A type of safety catch in which a figure eight shaped hinged wire snaps over a pin. The wide end of the eight connects at the bottom to the hinge whereas the smaller end slips over the pin to hold the clasp closed.

Filigree

Filigree, a type of decorative jewelry finding, is formed of bent wire that is soldered or stamped into delicate and complex designs similar to lace patterns.

Fill, Filled, Filling

This refers to the practice of filling open fissures in diamonds, usually with glass.

Findings

Jewelry findings are basically components, materials and elements such as clasps, pins, hooks, tabs etc that can be used in making or assembling a piece of jewelry.

Fineness

Fineness refers to the purity of a precious metal. The purity of a precious metal measured in 1,000 parts of an alloy. For example, a gold bar, containing 995 parts gold and 5 parts of another metal alloy, is considered with .995 fineness.

Finish

The way surface of a piece is cleaned or polished or textured. Finish refers quality of polish and symmetry on a stone as well as polish or texture applied to the metal on an item of jewelry. Common metal finishes include florentine, high polish and matte or brushed.

Fire

Fire refers flashes of spectrum colors seen in a diamond or in a gemstone as the result of dispersion.

Fisheye

A stone with exceedingly shallow pavilion, which produces a glassy appearance and a noticeable dearth of brilliancy.

Fishhook

It is a fishhook shaped finding often used to make pierced earrings. The hook end passes through the pierced ear, while an ornament hangs from the other end. It is also known as French ear wire.

Fissure

A crack or fracture or feather, which possibly reached to the surface of a stone.

Flat

A stone with a very thin crown and pavilion which gives a flat effect.

Flaw

Flaw refers to any internal or external imperfection on a diamond or on a gemstone and usually includes feather, fissure, carbon spot, knot, etc.

Flawless

Flawless is a term used for diamonds or other gemstones that are without any internal or external flaws when viewed by a trained eye under 10X magnification.

Florentine Finish

A Florentine finish is a crosshatched decorative technique engraved into the surface of a precious metal. It is usually applied by a hand tool and consists a series of parallel lines engraved in two directions perpendicular to each other. This finish reduces the reflectivity of metal and the lines are often coarser and more deeply incised than the brushed or matte finish methods.

Fluorescence

An effect in many gemstones mainly in diamonds that makes them glows in ultraviolet rays or light. Stones can fluoresce in a number of colors mainly in blue and fluorescence ratings include none, faint, slight, medium, strong and very strong. Faint to medium fluorescence is rarely detected under most lighting conditions which include sunlight also whereas strong or very strong fluorescence may make a stone appear ‘milky’ or ‘oily’ in such lighting conditions. Fluorescence is not dangerous to the stone or to its wearer. It is a unique and fascinating quality that occurs naturally in a number of gems and minerals.

Fob

A small chain or ribbon attached to a pocket watch, often with an ornament or decorative seal attached to the end.

Foil

Foil is a paper like thin sheet of metal which is used to place behind a gemstone to intensify its brilliance.

Foiling

A method of coating or placing silver, gold, or colored foil behind a gem in a closed setting to enhance its appearance as light is reflected by this. This is often done with rhinestones.

Foldover Clasp

A clasp with a box on one end and a V-shaped tongue on the other end, mainly used on a necklace or bracelet. The lid of the box opens to reveal a small hook and tongue slips over in it. Then the lid of the box is snapped closed to secure the tongue in place.

Forging

Heating a metal to a temperature where the metal becomes malleable (red hot) or deforming its shape by compression or exertion of force (by hammering or cold forging).

Four Cs

A phrase used to describe a diamond's value characteristics which cover the four well-known factors affecting the price of a diamond. All these factors start with the letter ‘C’: cut, color, clarity, and carat weight.

Foxtail Chain

It resembles the fullness of a foxtail which is made up of three rows of links. Foxtail chain is expertly designed by interweaving bent circles of metal together in a continuous pattern.

Fracture

A breaking or chipping in a diamond or in a gemstone, which usually reached to its surface and that is not in the direction of a cleavage plane.

Fracture Filling

A diamond’s enhancement process in which cavity is filled in a diamond with an artificial substance like glass.

French Back

It is an earring back for non-pierced ears where the earring is tightened against the earlobe by means of a screw.

French wire

It is a fishhook shaped finding often used to make pierced earrings. The hook end passes through the pierced ear, while an ornament hangs from the other end.

Freshwater Pearl

A freshwater pearl is an irregular shaped pearl that was harvested from a freshwater mussel (a mollusk). Usually these pearls are shaped like an uneven grain of rice, and are less valuable than oyster pearls. Biwa and Tennessee are the varieties of freshwater pearls.

Full Cut Brilliant

A full cut brilliant is a diamond or a gemstone usually with total of 58 facets, consisting of 32 facets and a table above the girdle and 24 facets and a culet below the girdle.

Functional Jewelry Findings

Functional jewelry findings are used in making a piece of jewelry that serves to accomplish some sort of mechanical functions such as attaching, linking or joining. Functional jewelry findings include catches, pin backs, posts, screw backs etc.

Gallery

Gallery is metal strips used to make settings for gemstones or used as a decorative design element in a piece of jewelry.

Garnet

Garnet, which belongs to mineral quartz, is a family of stones having many varieties differing in color and in their constituents. This name is derived from its resemblance in color and shape to the seeds of the pomegranate. Garnet Stones are available in varieties named Grossularite, Pyrope, Almandine, Rhodalite, Andradite, Essonite, Tsavorite, Spessartite, Melanite, Allochroite, Ouvarovite and Demantoid. The most common color of Garnets range from light red to violet, but can also be white, green, yellow, brown and black except blue. Its hardness in between 7.5 to 8 on Mohs hardness scale and it is mainly found in Burma, Sri Lanka, South Africa, China, USA, Tanzania, Madagascar, India and Australia.

Gauge

Any device or instrument which is used to calculate the weight of diamonds, by measuring or estimating physical dimensions like diameter, depth, length.

Gemological Institute of America (GIA)

Gemological Institute of America (GIA) was founded as non-profit organization in 1931 by Roger Shipley. GIA maintains the highest standards for grading diamonds and other precious gems and it has one of the world’s most-respected and well-regarded gemological laboratories. GIA has developed and standardize the diamond and gemstone grading system that is used by nearly all other gem labs.

Gemologist

A person with expertise in gemology is known as gemologist. There are many recognized courses available from various Gemological Institutes which offer study in gem identification, grading and pricing, as well as diamond grading and appraising.

Gemstone

A gemstone is a mineral or rock, which can be used in jewelry after cutting or faceting and polishing. Gemstones are diverse in their beauty and many gems are available in a stunning variety of colors. Most gemstones have little beauty in the rough state and they may look like ordinary rocks or pebbles in their rough form. After a skilled cutting and polishing of a gem, full color and luster can be seen. Gemstones are classified into two categories, precious and semi-precious, on the basis of their characteristics. Precious stones include diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires whereas semi precious stones are Alexandrite, Amethyst, Aquamarine, Citrine, Garnet, Iolite, Onyx, Opal, Pearl, Peridot, Tanzanite, Topaz, Tourmaline etc.

Geode

Geode is a cavity within a roc